Dr. Claudia Schulz, also known as “Dr. Schuh,” is a footwear expert, press spokesperson for the German Association of the Footwear and Leather Industry and the “German Shoe Institute,” presenter, trend consultant, blogger, and freelance journalist. Her mission: footwear! Dr. Schulz asks Christof Bär, Managing Director of the BÄR Manufaktur, several questions about sustainability, the company’s founding idea, leather, and many other aspects. Read the complete interview here!
What does BÄR Shoes stand for? What idea is behind the brand?
Christof Bär: We grew up with the principle of uncompromising Toe freedom. My father (Christian Bär) traveled extensively for work, spending a great deal of time on his feet, and would come home in the evening with back pain, exhaustion, and fatigue. He could not find shoes in which he could walk without pain. He was looking for a shoe without a heel that would give the foot plenty of Toe freedom. In principle, the walking sensation should correspond to walking barefoot, with the added benefit of the necessary cushioning. Since he could not find suitable shoes for these requirements and was certain that many others were living with the same problems and could benefit from a solution, my father ultimately developed them himself and initially had them produced under contract. In Pirmasens, he found the necessary expertise in making lasts and began production at a small company in the Swabian Jura, initially making 50 pairs of men’s shoes. At first, they were available only in black; later, a second color and women’s shoes were added. Today, a collection comprises 130 models, with 30% new developments each season. We were overwhelmed by the positive response. Yesterday as today, our customers appreciate the exceptional, immediately noticeable comfort of BÄR shoes: breaking them in is not necessary with our shoes.
What makes a BÄR shoe so unique, and how does it differ from other brands?
Christof Bär: It is the original principle of Toe freedom. Where the toes are pinched in many other shoes and therefore completely restricted in their natural movement, the toes can move freely in a BÄR shoe and the foot can roll naturally, as it does when barefoot. The shoe is stable and supportive at the heel, while toward the toes, where the bones become increasingly delicate, it offers optimal flexibility. If you place a BÄR shoe next to a competitor’s shoe, the unique Toe freedom shape is of course one distinguishing feature, but so are many small details that set our shoes apart. For example, we use double stitching where others do not, which gives the shoe greater quality as well as a distinctive appearance and supports its functionality. For cost reasons, many competitors cut back on these features.
Today we are talking about sustainability.
Today we are talking about sustainability.
What makes BÄR Shoes a sustainable brand or a sustainable, valuable product?
Christof Bär: The basic idea of sustainability is, first of all, that a product should last a long time. The less often I have to replace a product, the less waste I create. One aspect of the complex topic of sustainability is producing a product with a long service life. We have followed this principle from the very beginning. Our motto is: built to last, not made for fast turnover. BÄR shoes last two to four times longer than conventional shoes.
Christof Bär: The basic idea of sustainability is, first of all, that a product should last a long time. The less often I have to replace a product, the less waste I create. One aspect of the complex topic of sustainability is producing a product with a long service life. We have followed this principle from the very beginning. Our motto is: built to last, not made for fast turnover. BÄR shoes last two to four times longer than conventional shoes.
This also means that, when creating our collections, we must ensure that our durable shoes meet fashion requirements for longer than just one season. In addition, we offer a three-year guarantee that exceeds the statutory requirement.
In this context, people often talk about “slow fashion”—would you agree that BÄR shoes are durable?
Christof Bär: Absolutely—that is part of our philosophy. That is why our materials are also of such high quality that they can withstand long-term use—from leather linings and leather uppers to soles that, as wear parts, can also be replaced.
Where are BÄR shoes produced?
Why India?
Christof Bär: We began looking for alternatives early on in order to secure the skilled craftsmanship necessary for our shoes. What began as production of upper components developed from the original joint venture in India into our own subsidiary producing complete shoes. The reason for taking this step and managing production ourselves in India was our high quality standards and the availability of well-trained craftspeople. This level and compliance can only be maintained if you have direct influence over all processes. To this day, we find highly motivated employees who quickly integrate into the production process. In Germany, the profession of shoemaker has unfortunately become very rare and has steadily lost its appeal, so it is hardly taught anymore. The shortage of skilled workers is evident here as well.
In addition, we have been manufacturing in our own factory in India for 25 years, which we built from the ground up. This means that we have 100% control over the conditions on site. Besides providing safety, this also creates a high degree of flexibility, allowing us to produce in small batches. We source most of our materials from Europe, including leather from small German tanneries and moose leather from Scandinavia. Only very few shoe manufacturers can process these highly demanding, especially natural leathers with minimal finishing, such as deer, moose, and mouflon leather. At our headquarters in Bietigheim-Bissingen, we still have facilities for shoemaking. In addition to the repair workshop, initial samples are produced here. This was and remains a major advantage, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Besides providing flexibility, it is a great opportunity for our employees to demonstrate their expertise. In this context, however, I must point out how difficult it is to recruit skilled workers for shoemaking in Germany. Fortunately, we have a very good team in India with the corresponding expertise. Many employees have been with us since the beginning and add to their extensive wealth of experience every day.
How do you implement sustainability at your factory in India? And how do you create transparency within the company as well as for the public and customers?
Christof Bär: First of all, I would like to emphasize the close connection between India and Bietigheim-Bissingen. There is no separation. The same values and rules apply in both places. BÄR Shoes could be described as an international company with German roots. I am personally on site at least six times a year and always feel this sense of belonging, which is particularly important to me. Our current production building in India was inaugurated in 2012—with the same standards as in Germany from the outset with regard to workplace design. The office layout was also planned on the model of our office in Bietigheim. Resource-conserving and energy-efficient processes are the focus. This includes, for example, production halls with environmentally friendly epoxy resin floors to prevent dust and ensure hygiene. We have our own wastewater treatment plant and cover 50% of our energy requirements through photovoltaics. We are currently also planning to install additional panels to increase this share. Our social standards are also of the highest level. Within the company, the Council of Representatives takes care of employees’ concerns and jointly seeks solutions and communication with management. We take responsibility for the people who work for us. Fair production and working conditions are a matter of course for us. Our employees are picked up from home and brought to the company in company buses. Solar-powered lamps donated by Baer India provide greater safety on the public paths around the company. We are also involved in water treatment and, for example, donated water filters to a school for deaf and mute children that we support. Our compliance with standards and norms is regularly reviewed by independent institutions and certified according to ISO standards in the areas of social responsibility*, safety*, quality*, and environmental management*. In terms of working conditions, I would even describe BÄR Shoes as a pioneer in India. We practice what is known as work-life balance: We offer our employees periods of recovery and relaxation, with guided gymnastics exercises to music twice a day, as well as healthy food such as fresh milk in the morning, which is scarce and expensive in India.
Regarding your question about transparency: We see it as our foremost task to counter the poor image of shoe production in India, which is unfortunately often distorted by the media. We cannot change the world, but within our capabilities we can contribute something. As mentioned earlier, it is the close and direct cooperation that leads to a form of synchronization. For example, Indian employees have visited and exchanged ideas here, and German employees have done the same in India. We carry out exciting projects with German students in India and vice versa, allowing them to look behind the scenes. What matters to us is the person behind the product. That is important!
*Explanation of the standards at the end of the interview.
What is your position on the Supply Chain Act?
Christof Bär: We have always done everything it requires anyway. This proved particularly useful during the coronavirus pandemic. Relevant audits demonstrate our transparency. Upon request, we can provide complete traceability of the supply chain.
In addition, during the pandemic we continued to pay all employees in India 100%. In Germany, we avoided almost all reductions in pay due to short-time work by reducing vacation balances and overtime. We feel responsible for the supply chain and our employees even without the law.
Sustainability also means social responsibility. You say that, as a medium-sized company, employee responsibility is particularly close to your heart. What exactly does that mean?
Christof Bär: At our Indian factory, we take responsibility for our employees and their families. This includes, for example, pension and health insurance.
And at the headquarters in Bietigheim-Bissingen?
Christof Bär: Our goal is to employ and retain all employees at the company for the long term. In Bietigheim-Bissingen, 128 employees work mainly in logistics and administration. We do not have large departments and operate in a very versatile and flexible way. We work as partners. When necessary, anyone can step in for someone else.
Let’s return to the product. What materials are used to make BÄR shoes? Where do the materials come from? (Resources)
Christof Bär: We primarily process leather because, in terms of its properties, it most closely resembles human skin. This applies particularly to biomechanical aspects. Leather is characterized by breathability, flexibility, and softness. It is also highly stable and durable. Therefore, leather is our number one material and cannot be replaced by anything else. We primarily use calfskin, both for uppers and linings. Unlike many other shoe manufacturers, we deliberately use high-quality, unfinished calfskin for linings, ensuring full breathability for an optimal foot climate while maintaining durability for many years. The leathers we process comply with the strictest European regulations. We work exclusively with tanneries certified according to the LWG standard and know almost all our suppliers personally. I personally visit every tannery we would like to work with. We also regularly conduct tests and random checks at independent institutes, both in India and here on site.
The topics of sneakers and lightweight trekking shoes are currently being widely discussed. Do you also see alternative high-tech materials here that offer their own advantages? Do you use these materials as well?
Christof Bär: Yes, we already have several models in our range, such as shoes with uppers made from recycled PET bottles. We are responding to rising demand with these products and by developing new materials.
Leather has come under criticism unfairly. Why is leather a sustainable material?
Christof Bär: Leather is a high-quality and durable material. What many people do not know is that leather is a by-product of the meat industry and is therefore already part of the upcycling process. No animal has to die for a shoe or a belt. It would actually be wasteful not to use the leather—there are countries where things are handled differently and leather is burned, turning it into a waste product. That is anything but sustainable. As already mentioned, it is characterized by breathability and durability. Leather is allowed to develop and age. And when a leather shoe is truly no longer wearable after being resoled, it may retire. Shoes that are disposed of by us as irreparable are often still donated to good causes, where they may continue to be used.
Leather is a durable material when properly cared for. But shoes consist of many components. Shoes wear out. How can I preserve a valuable shoe? (Guarantee, repair service)
Christof Bär: Preserving value is our priority. This begins with the product, which is made from high-quality, durable materials, and extends to cedarwood shoe trees, which help absorb moisture from the shoe and smooth the leather again after wear. We help customers keep their BÄR shoes for a long time. That is why we also offer environmentally friendly care products and horsehair brushes, which can be used to work the care products into the pores of the leather. All of this can sometimes double a shoe’s service life.
As mentioned earlier, BÄR shoes come with a three-year guarantee. That is exceptional, but we have absolute confidence in our product. The BÄR Repair Service is also very popular. All BÄR shoes can be resoled and refurbished right down to the laces, so that they are practically like new and can begin their second life. We compare this with a complete overhaul or the replacement of wear parts, such as changing tires on a car. This service is frequently used. Anyone who has purchased a pair of favorite BÄR shoes can therefore wear them for a long time. That too is sustainability.
And yet, as an entrepreneur, you are surely interested in people occasionally buying a new pair of BÄR shoes. You are considered innovative. You successfully combine fashion and comfort.
But do innovation, fashion, and sustainability really go together?
Christof Bär: Short-term fashion and short-term sales do not correspond to our philosophy. We have confidence in our shoes and the BÄR brand, and we want to convey this confidence to our customers. Our promise is that our shoes are better than others. We cover every segment, from slippers to business shoes. We often meet customers who, after buying their first pair of BÄR shoes, reorganize their entire shoe closet because they no longer want to sacrifice comfort on any occasion.
We grow thanks to our loyal customers, who are convinced by and enthusiastic about BÄR shoes and recommend our brand to others. BÄR shoes are a way of life, not a fleeting trend product that provides a few weeks of satisfaction on a whim. We have a genuine fan base. Beyond Germany, we are very strong in France, England, Austria, and Switzerland. BÄR shoes are also highly accepted in Japan, and our shoes are in demand in Kuwait and many other countries. We also see potential in Scandinavia and the Benelux countries.
Regarding innovation: We are very willing to experiment, for example when it comes to new soles. This currently concerns sports shoes that we equip with extremely lightweight, abrasion-resistant soles made from PU/TPU compounds. We are also innovative in the socially relevant area of trekking and hiking. Here, for example, we combine leather with high-quality high-tech materials. As already mentioned, our sneakers use recycled materials from PET bottles, among others. Thanks to our many years of experience in the sourcing market, we know which suppliers can implement our ideas.
Regarding fashion: Short-lived, fast-moving fashion trends are not our thing. Our shoes should remain relevant for several seasons. This applies in particular to our unique lasts, which offer 100% uncompromising Toe freedom. We reflect current fashion, for example, through seasonal color and material themes.
Regarding sustainability: Thinking across generations is a fundamental principle for us. We want to leave the world in a better state than we found it. From raw materials to resources, we do not take away anything that could be missing in the future.
*Explanation of the ISO standards:
certified in the areas of social responsibility (CSR), safety (OHSAS/ISO 18001), quality (ISO 9001:2015), and environmental management (ISO 14001:2015)
